Of all of the regional cuisines in Thailand, the food of Thailand’s Northeast, also known as “Isan”, is arguably the most popular among Thais themselves. Every street corner, even in the far South, boasts its own vendor making grilled chicken over a charcoal brazier or the sour-spicy salad known as “som tum”. Most commonly made with julienned green papaya pounded into submission with a mortar and pestle. Accompanied by a steaming hunk of sticky rice, this meal is ubiquitous for lunch, dinner. Even eaten for breakfast and available all over the country.

But it’s the dish of grilled sliced beef that pioneering Thai Chef Weerawat ‘Num’ Triyasenawat says will tell you all you need to know about an Isan chef’s skill. Born in Udon Thani and heading up the groundbreaking restaurant Samuay & Sons, Chef Num is an expert on all things Isan. Even if he currently calls Bangkok and his new restaurant Soma home.

“If the beef is chewy and tasteless the restaurant you’re at is no good,” declares Chef Num. “Alternatively, well-grilled beef that’s tender and flavourful means all systems are go for that particular eatery. And that the chef enjoys a good relationship with the local butcher!”

That dish is known as ‘suea rong hai’ (lit. ‘crying tiger beef’. Why? Because the deliciousness of the meat makes the tiger cry for missing out on it. It’s a standard on menus featuring grilled or raw beef in local restaurants all over Isan. Considered part of a “macho” meal enjoyed by men after work whilst lingering over whiskies.

Whilst it would be a snap to make this dish out of tenderloin or even wagyu, the most skilled cooks make it out of cheaper cuts like flank, hanger or skirt steak. Their skill is to coax maximum flavour out of the meat whilst ensuring peak tenderness. The meat is always accompanied by a salty-spicy dipping sauce known as “nam jim jeaw”. Delicious too, even with chicken, pork and lamb, if that’s your preference!

The recipe below is reprinted with permission from the upcoming cookbook tentatively titled “Thai Food Stories”, scheduled for spring 2027.

Suea Rong Hai (lit. Crying Tiger Beef) serves 4
If you are serving this as a “main” and not as part of a Thai meal, you might want to increase the meat portion to ⅓ to ½ pound per person for a steak dinner. Traditionally served with sticky rice, a green papaya salad and, of course, a beer or whisky soda.

Preparation time
15 minutes (plus 30 minutes to 2 hours for marinating)

Cooking time
10 minutes

Ingredients
1 pound (about 450 grams) beef steak (sirloin, ribeye, filet or flank), at room temperature
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1 tablespoon ground palm sugar, coconut sugar or brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ground coriander seeds or powder

Nam Jim Jeaw Dipping Sauce:
Ingredients
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 tablespoon toasted rice powder
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro root, stalks and leaves may be substituted
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
2 Thai bird chilies, finely chopped (adjust to taste) red chili flakes may be substituted
1 teaspoon palm sugar or brown sugar
1 tablespoon water
1 teaspoon tamarind paste (optional, for extra tanginess)

Method
1. In a bowl, combine soy sauce, fish sauce, oyster sauce, brown sugar, vegetable oil, black pepper, minced garlic, and coriander powder.
2. Add the beef to the marinade, ensuring it is well-coated.
3. Cover and let it marinate for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours in the refrigerator for better flavour.
4. For the dipping sauce in a small bowl, mix the fish sauce, lime juice, toasted rice powder (see below for how to make this), shallots, cilantro, mint, Thai bird chilies, palm sugar, water, and tamarind paste (if using).
5. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Adjust seasoning to taste and set aside.

Toasted Rice Powder
Dry-toast uncooked sticky rice in a pan over medium heat until golden brown, then grind it to a fine powder using a mortar and pestle or spice grinder.

Next
1. Preheat a grill or grill pan over medium-high heat.
2. Remove the beef from the marinade and grill for about 4-5 minutes on each side for medium-rare, or until desired doneness is reached.
3. Let the beef rest for 5 minutes before slicing into thin slices against the grain.
4. Arrange the sliced beef on a serving platter.
5. Serve with the dipping sauce on the side, garnished with additional fresh herbs if desired.
6. Pair with sticky rice, fresh cucumber slices, and lettuce.
7. Enjoy

Chawadee Nualkhair
Vice-Chargée de Presse
Bailliage of Bangkok Rattankosin