Visit to the Azores
" such an interesting and enjoyable trip "
Landing in the Azores for a gastronomic weekend was a complete contrast to the Algarve with lush green, almost tropical vegetation and volcanic landscape. The temperature was a pleasant 18 degrees.
Welcoming drinks and light tapas style supper at the hotel on the seafront in Ponta Delgada was our first introduction to the many delicious local cheeses.
In the morning clouds cleared enough for a stunning view of Lagoa do Fogo, a lake in one of the larger craters on the island of São Miguel. We walked around beautiful, tranquil gardens of Terra Nostra with loudly croaking frogs near bathers in the steaming thermal pools.
Lunch was one of the tour’s highlights. We watched our lunch pail drawn up from an underground oven having cooked for eight hours by geothermal energy. Our host welcomed us to eat this cozido das caldeiras (pork knuckle, chorizo, blood pudding, cabbage, potatoes) which preceded wonderful cheeses. Desserts made in-house were pudim flan (local milk pudding) and a cake made with local pineapples.
We then arrived, in full sunshine, at Lagoa das Sete Cidades, a lake in a very steep sided, wooded, dramatic caldera.
Bruno Kosm, an internationally experienced local chef, hosted our dinner at Casa Nostra restaurant. A beautifully presented six-course tasting menu was accompanied by local wines, including from Pico, grown on volcanic soil which were minerally, smoky and slightly salty.
Next morning: torrential rain. However, the sun was shining when we arrived at Gorreana Tea Plantation for a tour and tasting. The caldeiras and hot springs of Furnas were next. The iconic Azores landscape of lush green, steep sided craters with lakes, spectacular waterfalls (accentuated by the earlier heavy rain), bubbling hot springs and steaming geysers were reminiscent of Jurassic Park. Some bathed in the orange, ferrous water of the thermal bath, others explored the luxuriant park.
Lunch at Restaurant Garajau in Ribeira Quente introduced local seafood and a local delicacy of grilled limpets (very good!). Delicious polvo al forno and fried mackerel followed. Local wines and desserts completed this very convivial meal.
Next, the bubbling steaming fumaroles of Furnas, where we tasted and compared the warm, sulphurous waters.
Dinner? No-one was hungry but apparently the very popular Restaurante Associação Agricola served up the best steak on the island. It did! We all ate it! Wonderfully tender, tasty, individually cooked to perfection!
What a wonderful end to our gastronomic weekend!
Big thank yous to our Azores hosts and to Bailli Marie-Anne Ferran and our Confrère Salvador de Lucena for organising such an interesting and enjoyable trip.
Thank you also to my fellow travellers for their convivial company - a sure Chaîne trademark.
Dr Jane Mott
Dame de la Chaîne
Choosing this year's Best Young Chef and Young Sommelier