My meeting with Maître Rôtisseur Johan Jureskog was held in the fantastic room where meat plays the main role in what he likes to think is his “jewellery shop with a plethora of gemstones”.

Four tons of meat hangs in temperature-controlled cabinets. Everything “from nose to tail” is now an accepted way of working. There are choices of breed, gender, age, feeding and tenderisation time. And lamb, pork and game such as deer, wild boar, hare and moose in season are hung.

The old milk cow provides Johan’s favourite meat, a view which many chefs now share. One meat trader has the unique task of providing the best cow’s meat. Johan is resolute with his suppliers. Animal care, biological diversity, traders, restaurant keepers and of course guests from near and far benefit.

Located in a former silver factory, Restaurant AG isn’t easy to find. The entrance is unprepossessing however the best awaits two floors up.

A meat sommelier, usually an experienced chef, acts as a guide through the extensive menu suggesting creatively mixed dishes to give several meat experiences in one with partnerships from a selection of 1000 wines. Sharing family style was first introduced at AG. Johan's meat school is available for learning how to carve.

Until age 12 Johan only ate meatballs and macaroni. A charter trip to Spain opened his culinary eyes. Then and there he decided to become a chef. He graduated as top student at the cooking school in Stockholm and became apprenticed to an experienced chef with whom he is still in contact.

Johan’s energy comes from childhood where he was taught to never say never. He aims to continue to open restaurants till his energy runs out.

When thinking about a profession, Johan explored priesthood. Not because he is particularly religious but listening, conversing and giving good advice appeals to him. This makes him an esteemed supervisor. “I really hate harsh words”, he says emphatically. Summing up, he observed, “a happy chef cooks good food so why should you shout at them.”

In addition to Rolf’s Kök (kitchen) when Johan with his childhood friend and colleague Maître Restaurateur Klas Ljungquist wanted to open their next restaurant, he could realise his dream of Spanish food. A Spanish tapas chef was hired to design a menu according to the rules and eventually a Sommelier for drinks. Reflecting Johan says, “we did so many things wrong. In Spain you stand in a crowd. Here everyone wants to sit”.

With Rolf’s Kök and AG now well established, Johan and his brother Ludwig’s dream became a reality. “Jureskog’s” (a “lighter” version of AG,) is a hamburger chain focused on creating the country's best fast-food experience. Previous collaboration with McDonalds provided invaluable knowledge. Johan went on a road trip for research in the USA, the mother country of hamburgers. Result was a Swedish TV series, “The World’s Best Burger”. Logistics was the challenge. Six restaurants are established with more planned. A fine dining chef opening a hamburger bar shocked. Johan is proud to follow his instinct. Now all restaurants worth mentioning have high-rib burgers and pizzas on their menu.

Family is important. Every Friday afternoon Johan’s computer is closed until Monday morning. Weekends are at the archipelago. Being outdoors a priority. A mix of their dog’s tireless energy, picking mushroom and wild berries a must as are home-cooked meals.

This is the Jureskog family's life philosophy and survival strategy.

Catarina Offe
Conseiller Gastronomique

Translation into English by Margareta Henry, Chargée de Missions Honoraire

Photographer: Joel Wåreus