A long-time member of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs in Thailand, Molchaya “Ja” Techapaibul never thought she would ever become a Bailli herself. But one day over a Zoom call, Ja was asked by Bailli Délégué Joe Thawilvejjakul to head up the fledgling Bailliage of Bangkok-Rattanakosin, founded somewhat inauspiciously during the COVID pandemic in 2020-2021.

“Being made a Bailli brought with it a lot of responsibility,” Ja recalls. “I started when we were just coming out of the COVID crisis and the hospitality business was in bad shape. People were still worried about being in a big crowd. We had to start slowly. It was an interesting time. But we were very much aware of the possibilities.”

The possibilities involved resurrecting a few well-established culinary institutions, hit hard by lockdowns and travel restrictions, as well as nurturing new names just starting to make a splash in the dining scene. The judicious mix of tried-and-true establishments with exciting new names has largely proven a hit, showcasing the surprising depth of the post-COVID restaurant world, aided by organizations like Michelin and Asia’s 50 Best.

“Our Bailliage’s vision from day one was to promote new and interesting restaurants and help young chefs get their footing in the business,” says Ja. “At the same time, we are not neglecting longstanding classic restaurants. In the past, people believed good restaurants could only be found in hotels. That’s not the case today.”

That philosophy has led to the forging of new traditions for the Bailliage of Bangkok-Rattanakosin, including a champagne dinner every April, caviar in July, game and chanterelles for October, and at least one event spotlighting an interesting new Thai chef every year. Another interesting by-product has been that, without an official Vice-Échanson, Bailli Ja has stepped in herself, pairing menus as disparate as traditional French and modern Thai with interesting but always appropriate wine selections.

Having received her own French Wine Scholar Award and passed the notoriously difficult WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) Level 3, Ja became interested in wines for purely personal reasons. “I wanted to know what I drink,” she says. “When I was growing up, everyone said ‘The best wine is not the most expensive wine on the menu. You need to choose wisely.’ After WSET Level 2, I got hooked.”

Although Ja admits to still being partial to the storied wines from Bordeaux’s Left Bank (“I’m a creature of habit,” she says), she is open-minded when it comes to choosing pairings for the dinners that feature Thai cuisine, a tricky food to pair for. But, as Ja says, many people rely too much on ‘perceived wisdom’ instead of trying out their own tastebuds. “They always think that it has to go with white. And they always think that it has to be sweet, which is not true at all. Syrah would go very well. Burgundy Pinot Noir would go very well.”

Whatever the theme, Ja hopes that events will always centre on a sense of camaraderie which is the reason why Ja joined the Chaîne in the first place. She enthused, “It’s such a joy to be amongst people who are passionate about the same things. And with that initial common interest, conversation flows. I always learn something new at our dinners.”

Chawadee Nualkhair
Vice-Conseiller Gastronomique
Bailliage of Bangkok-Rattanakosin