On a July evening in the Talad Noi district of the city, members and guests of the Bailliage of Bangkok-Rattanakosin gathered at SAKKWA for a dinner that paired contemporary Thai cooking with the easy conviviality central to the Chaîne.

The restaurant is tucked away on the fourth floor of a mid-century warehouse, an unassuming entrance for a polished dining room. Its contemporary design feels at home in Talad Noi, a riverside trading district that has evolved into one of Bangkok’s most energetic creative neighbourhoods. An open kitchen places the chefs and the evening’s sense of theatre at the centre of the room.

Chef Worathon “Tae” Udomchalothorn used the intimate setting to present his sustainability-minded approach to Thai cuisine. Trained at the Culinary Institute of America, Chef Tae helped develop the Michelin-starred Le Du, founded the acclaimed Kavee and won Iron Chef Thailand. His cooking draws on that international experience while remaining grounded in Thailand’s regional traditions.

Introducing each course himself, Chef Tae explained the thinking behind the menu and playfully invited guests to become part of the presentation by interacting with several dishes. Individual plates alternated with shared platters served in the Thai family style, lending warmth and spontaneity to the tasting-menu format and gave the tables plenty to discuss.

The cooking was precise but playful. Fragrant herbs, bright citrus and measured spice were layered with contrasting temperatures and textures. Raw tiger prawns arrived nestled in makrut limes; Hokkaido scallop was paired with coconut granita; duck “tacos” offered a witty detour. Dessert ended the meal on an unexpected note with fish-sauce caramel.

Five wines followed the menu’s shifts in flavour with unusual precision. A Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne, a Premier Cru Chablis and a 2018 Pauillac Grand Cru Classé were among the most admired pours of the evening.

The guest list extended well beyond Bangkok, with visiting Chaîne members from Cambodia, Macau, Switzerland, Türkiye and the United Arab Emirates. Conversations moved easily among the tables as old friendships resumed and new ones began.

When dinner ended, part of the group adjourned to a nearby jazz bar. The change of setting from open kitchen to live music felt less like an after-party than the final course of an evening built around food, wine and fellowship.

Vive la Chaîne!

Bailliage of Bangkok-Rattanakosin