The National Bailliage of Portugal held its Grand Chapitre “Chaîne Nature” from June 18-21. It was a four-day celebration in praise of a cuisine rooted in nature and the values that underpin it.

Taking in Lisbon, the Bairrada Vila Nova de Gaia and Porto, the programme drew members from Bailliages across the globe: Australia, Ethiopia, Germany, Great Britain, Israel, Italy, Portugal, Switzerland, Thailand, Türkiye and the USA for a journey built on the Chaîne’s three guiding pillars: wine, food and friendship.

Proceedings opened on Thursday with a reception at the Altis Grand Hotel and a visit to the Casa do Alentejo, a building prized for its architecture in the heart of the capital. From there, the group took to Lisbon’s streets by tuk-tuk, pausing along the way for ginjinha* and the inevitable pastel de nata** which made a fitting, easy-going introduction to Portuguese food. The evening was rounded off with a fine dinner at Plano, courtesy of Chef Vítor Adão, which set the tone for the days ahead.

Friday moved the celebration to the Bairrada, where Luís Pato and Maria João Pato hosted the group at the Adega Luís Pato alongside Paulo Amado and Marie-Anne Ferran, Bailli Délégué and Chancelier of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs de Portugal, respectively.

Unsurprisingly Bairrada’s famous suckling pig took pride of place at lunch. It was prepared by guest chef Ricardo Mugasa of Restaurant Mugasa, whose technical skill has won him no shortage of admirers among his fellow Chaîne chefs. He cooked alongside Gonçalo Queiroz, Filipe Ramalho and Vítor Adão for a lunch to remember, with wine and sparkling wine service led by Échanson Genny Queiroz.

That evening, the group headed to Vila Nova de Gaia, where members Lídia Braz and Fernando Araújo welcomed everyone to Proua for a relaxed night around the restaurant's well-known marble counter. A spread of classic Portuguese petiscos, prawns, rissóis, tripe and more, made for an evening defined by warmth and good company.

Saturday began with a tour of the Cockburn’s cellars, one of the great names in Port wine, followed by lunch at Porto’s Mercado do Bolhão, in the “Culto do Bacalhau” space. A nod to the fish that runs through the heart of Portuguese food culture.

The day’s high point came that evening at World of Wine (WOW), where an elegant setting provided the backdrop for the Induction Ceremony, welcoming new members into the fold. Bailli Délégué Paulo Amado, who is a Member of the Conseil Magistral, used the occasion to thank Chancelier Marie-Anne Ferran for her work, and to award the Chaîne’s Silver Medal to Genny Queiroz, Pedro Ornelas and Vítor Adão.

A number of other members, including Chris Mott, were recognised for their contribution to the Chaîne in Portugal. Jean Ferran and Paulo Amado received special mention, too. Inducted more than 20 years ago aboard a rabelo boat on the Douro itself, the pair were now presented with their Commandeur Awards. The ceremony also marked the welcome of new Portuguese members, alongside fellow members from several countries who chose Portugal as the place to join the Chaîne.

Celebrations carried on into the evening on the terrace at Barão Fladgate, where members toasted with sparkling wine as the sun went down over the Douro to the strains of a fado group. A polished Gala Dinner followed paired with some of Portugal’s finest wines which brought old friends and new together in the spirit of fellowship that runs through everything the Chaîne does.

Sunday was given over to farewells, with a closing lunch at the Hotel Altis Porto offering one last taste of Portuguese cuisine before bringing this Grand Chapitre to a memorable close.

Marie-Anne Ferran
Chancelier

* Ginjinha, or simply ginja, is a Portuguese liqueur made by infusing ginja berries in alcohol and adding sugar together with other ingredients with cloves and cinnamon sticks being the most common. Ginjinha is served in the form of a shot with a piece of the fruit in the bottom of the cup.

** Pastel de nata is a Portuguese egg custard tart pastry, optionally dusted with cinnamon.